When visiting Rome, don’t stay near the train station. We took a train with a late booking from Milano to Roma Termini. The area around the train station is crawing with tourists. As is most of central Rome, but then this is just more so. We stayed in a hotel that was the upper two floors of a building. There were hotels on each of the four floors below us, four of them. Breakfast was contracted out to a restaurant on the corner of the street below and as is often the case for things subcontracted out and not monitored, mediocre. I should list the good things about it: 1) it was dry.
We were able to walk to the things we wanted to see for the two days we were there. To say there are old things to see in Rome is like saying that there are beautiful girls on the beach at Ipenema. At some point, I hit saturation and I think that only Saint Peter walking on the water would have gotten my attention.
Speaking of Saint Peter, I saw his house and, boy, oh boy, did he over decorate. I have a hard time correlating the piety of the poor with the gold plating of the Vatican. It is like one of the previous popes was Midas. On the other hand, the Catholic church has preserved culture of Rome in a way no government could have done. Many object d’art were either donated to or purchased by the Catholic church over the centuries. It is a form of immortality to have your name attached to something for posterity. The source of each of these items in the Vatican’s museum was usually mentioned in the description of it.
With regard to Christianity, I like the way the Roman noble families did a leveraged buyout of the Christian church. In the early days of the church, property donated to the church could be free of taxes, so families did that and had their sons join the church to continue managing the estates. Roman Catholicism adopted many of the characteristics of Roman clinetelism and continued Roman culture for many centuries. Along with the LBO of the Christian church, the Roman church worked hard to gain market share. They were very successful at beating out the competition, literally. Convert to Catholicism or be put to the sword. Modern day marketing people still envy the Catholics for that option.
One of the paintings in the Vatican museum depicted the ‘murder of five priests by Calvinists’. My words were, “Good for the Calvinists.” There weren’t any paintings about the Inquisition. How about a few statues to celebrate the successes of the Counterreformation? Oh yeah, there weren’t any. The premise of the Roman church is that they could replace the Pax Romana with the Pax Christo. But people don’t work that way. Poland is overwhelmingly Catholic because they were under the economic, political and cultural domination of Russia for Centuries. Russia was Orthodox, so there was no way in hell that Poland would be.
My colleague was listening to a guide when I caught up with him, so we fell in with the group for about five minutes. This guide professed a form of Christitanity that was two parts mysticism and one part glamour. She sounded like she was from the East coast, New Jersey perhaps, and prattled on about three secrets of the world that are passed down from pope to pope and how one of the died when he read the three secrets. One of them was that a pope would be shot on a day of the year, and son-of-a-gun, Pope JP II got hit. She showed a picture of her favorite pope, Pope Justin, the warrior Pope. Gee, is that what Jesus had in mind when he said “Love your neighbor as yourself” or was that to be interpreted as “Kill your neighbor before he can kill you.”?
The Sistene chapel was packed to the gills with people, and they were stirred by the most thuggish looking and acting security people in the whole place. They passed through the crowd like paddles, causing a wake of displaced persons when they moved. “No pictures! No pictures!” There were the people shushing people talking. This was weird. It is not like people were practicing a liturgy. This museum turns a profit. They had a flow of people through that was easily 10,000 on the day I was there, at around $20 per person. Many of the people bought trinkets, so you could figure on another $50,000 per day from those sales. Around $250,000 per day. That’s a revenue stream of $90 million per year. I don’t it it costs that much to run the place. They don’t do many acquisitions as many pieces are donated to them. $90 million per year for restorations and staff. Conservative American fundamentalists must be green with envy when they consider this sweet deal.
After a week in Milan where it seems that being a pedestrian crossing the street is like playing a game of lotto, where if you win, you get to cross the street and if you lose, you die, I took matters into my own hands, or feet as it were, to deal with cars that cut through the cross walk as I was crossing. We left Roma Termini and crossed the street to find out hotel and a car shot into the cross walk in front of me. I kicked his rear quarter panel. A little while later the same thing happened and I used my hand this time (this car was closer) and I heard a satisfying “sprong” sound as the fender dented in and released. Two times was enough and I refrained from doing it again.
The Roman Forum area is closed off and no longer available for free wandering. There are preservation and restoration projects underway and it was a pleasure to walk that part of Rome. The Curio, the place where the Senate met was striking. The roof has been restored. Some pieces of the original marble still stand. There were many fragments of buildings extant and it was interesting to look at the construction techniques used, particularly arch structures. The Colosseum was grand.
I was humming a Bob Dylan song for most of the two days that I was there. “When I Paint My Masterpeice”. It starts with the line, “The streets of Rome are filled rubble. Ancient footprints are everywhere.”